As a fellow wood-turner, as well as furniture maker, I am naturally attracted to the work of Kyle Toth. For those unfamiliar with his portfolio, he is likely most well known for (or at least I discovered him because of) his work with segmented bowls and vases. In addition to his turnings, Kyle has some notable furniture builds (see his Walnut and Quartz Entryway Table or his Knot Table) and some exceptionally beautiful, smaller (and still sculptural) pieces (Redwood Burl Box).
Kyle’s latest build takes a lot of the elements of some of his previous builds, while taking it in a slightly different direction from his latest videos. In his Tuscan-Style Kitchen Cart video, he takes a design that could be very vanilla and plain, and spices it up with a few beautiful details, like the hand-carved gouging, and the subtle yet bold copper accents.
If you’re not already, please make sure to subscribe to Kyle Toth’s YouTube channel. Also, check out his Portfolio on his website, and hit up his Twitter, and let him know that I sent you! Let me know what you think in the comments below!
Lately, I’ve been focusing much of my energy on the woodworking side of Making. Wood is a versatile, forgiving medium, with a classical and timeless aesthetic. However, my history is in Computers and Electronics, and I still like to dabble in that world.
Ben Brandt has found a way to appeal to both of these interests. He has taken a Raspberry Pi 3 and some stepper motors to create a Programmable Box Joint Jig. By going to a web paged served by his Pi, he is able to configure and define the size of the boxes to be cut. He even built the jig to automatically advance after each cut.
Additionally, in a later video, he was able to show how the jig could be configured to cut boxes of variable width throughout the joint.
Having gone through the pain of trying to fine-tune box joint jigs, and the frustration of setting one up knowing that it will only work for that size joint, I am very much interested in seeing how this project turns out. Check out Ben’s YouTube Channel, website, Instagram, andTwitter, make sure to subscribe and follow, and let me know what you think in the comments below.
I just stumbled across this video while watching some of my YouTube Subscriptions. It was recommended to me by those fine folk over at YouTube. I haven’t watched Tony’s other videos yet, but you better believe they’re on my playlist after watching this one.
Machining is a craft I have no experience with. I was an Engineering Intern at a Research Laboratory almost 15 years ago, and I would just hang out in the Machine Shop and watch in awe the Tool and Die Makers do their thing. It was there I first put my hands on a welding gun, actually.
Well, Tony doesn’t disappoint here. Not only is his skill in the craft apparent, but he hilarious as well. Extra credit goes out to my man for his awesome use of Optimus Prime throughout the video.
It’s a bit long as compared to my other Featured Build Videos, but well worth the time investment. Check out ThisOldTony’s channel, subscribe, and let me know what you think in the comments below.
Now I can cross one more item off of the honey-do list. This coffee table has been a long-time coming. I’ve been bouncing ideas off of my wife for some time now as to how we wanted this designed. In fact, this table is actually probably the first piece I’ve made where she has had such a heavy influence on the design.
We decided to go with a Herringbone pattern to add a little bit of visual interest, and we wanted different colored slats to lend some added dimension. The rest of the table is a very traditional design, with the legs attached to the apron with mortise and tenon, and the table top made with tongue-and-groove frame-and-panel joinery.
The table is entirely made out of red oak, with the exception of the plywood used for the panels. The stains used is the Minwax water-based wood stain, tinted for Onyx, Coffee and Whitewash. For the top coat, I used Minwax Polycrylic, with a Satin finish.
In the interest of brevity, I’ll let the pictures do most of the talking here. I will add some notes as to how I got to certain points. However, if you have any questions, or would like some more details, please leave a comment below.
I will spare you the details of milling the wood down to size. I made it easy on myself and bought wood that was already surfaced on 4 sides (S4S), so I need only worry about ripping and cutting my boards to length.
The legs are joined to the aprons with traditional mortise and tenon joinery. To cut the tenons, I used a dado stack in my table saw, set up for its widest kirf, and then used my miter gauge to cut the shoulders, and remove the material. I then later cleaned it up with a chisel.
To cut the corresponding mortises, I carved out a bulk of the material using my drill press, with a drill-bit slightly smaller than the desired width of the mortise. I then pared down the sides and cleaned the rest of the material out with a chisel.
Next part of the project was to work on the table top. As stated, the design is a frame-and-panel, with the herringbone pieces inset in to the panels. The pieces are joined with tongue-and-groove cuts.
The panels are pieces of 0.25″ plywood, cut at 11″ square. The tongues are cut to the same thickness using the table saw with a dado-stack installed. I affixed a sacrificial fence to my table-saw fence, and raised the blade through the sacrificial piece. I was then able to dial-in how far the blade protruded from the fence, and, using the miter gauge, was able to batch out the tongues very quickly and accurately.
For the grooves, I again used my table saw with a dado stack. I dialed in the dado to match precisely the thickness of the panels/tongues. I then dialed in the position of my fence to match the position of the tongue on the frame pieces. This method proved very accurate and repeatable. When dry-fitting the pieces after they were all cut, I had to make very few adjustments to the cuts.
The most time consuming part of this project was the herringbone panels. The thought here is to secure the herringbone pattern on to new pieces of plywood, which would then be glued to the panels already inset in the table-top frame. This was an easier and more manageable way to work on these panels.
I resawed the oak to be the same thickness as the distance between the top of the plywood panel, and the top of the frames, minus the thickness of the plywood. This would leave the table flush across the surface.
Once they were resawed, cut and sanded, I stained them all individually. I then attached them to the plywood panels with both wood glue and CA glue. The CA glue allowed me to get an instant bond while the wood glue cured. I assembled the pieces so they would overhang the panels, and then went back later to trim them back.
Before attaching the individual panels to the table top, I had to glue-up and stain the base and the top. It was then just a matter of dropping the panels in to place, and securing it with wood glue.
To attach the table top to the base, I used the Rockler Table Top Fasteners. With this design, I don’t anticipate there to be much wood movement in the top. However, this method will allow me to break the table down later, if I need to do repairs or refinishing.
All said and done, the table turned out great. The only thing I would do differently is I would spend more time milling up the wood for the herringbone slats to make sure they are all the same thickness. There is probably an 1/8″ difference between the thinnest slats and the thickest, which means there are few uneven spots. Let me know what you think in the comments!
I feel like, for my target demographic, Matt Cremona needs no introduction. As a host on the WoodTalk Podcast, and regular YouTube Content Creator, his name carries a certain gravitas without my assistance. That said, his work deserves recognition. Matt’s woodworking is beautiful, but the aspect of his work that I enjoy the most is watching him learn how to make his own lumber. Going through his YouTube video catalog is like a workshop on learning how to mill wood. From using a chainsaw mill, to making a log trailer, and now, building his own bandsaw mill.
This latest project series, at time of this posting, is still in its infancy at just over a week old. There is still a ton of work to be done in the development of the mill. However, in only 3 videos, Cremona has me hooked, anxiously awaiting the next video. I’ve included the introductory video here, but I suggest you check out his channel here, subscribe, and watch this build as it unfolds.
If you haven’t had a chance to check out Trustin Timber’s YouTube channel, now is the time to do it. There are only a handful of videos out there, and he only releases videos once a month or so, but they are worth the wait. Additionally, it is clear he is taking his time to focus on production quality. The recorded audio is crystal-clear, and the music is very fitting to the mood of the videos. Also, there is a very clear intention with all of his shots.
Enough about the video quality, let’s look at his projects. Trustin’s projects have a heavy focus on nature, with each build incorporating natural components throughout. By using humble tools to manipulate the world around him, every video leaves me wanting for a more Walden-esque existence.
In this particular video he uses branches and driftwood to create a chair that is both beautiful, but also so subtle, that one may walk past it in the woods without even noting it.
Grab yourself a steel mug, make some coffee by the fire, sit back, and enjoy the video below. While you’re at it, subscribe to Trustin’s YouTube Channel, and make sure to ‘Like’ all of his videos.
Whether you’re a collector, or an enthusiast, or have some family heirlooms, most of us have at least one item around our house that we are proud of, and would like showcase. For Glen over at DIY Creators, its his shoes. In the video, he’ll walk you through the steps on How to Make a Display Case, one he plans on using in his closet.
I picked this video for my Featured Build, because the design of this case is so simple and elegant, but really looks like something you would find in a museum or high-end art studio. Furthermore, as is the case with all of the DIY Creator videos, the techniques and tools for this build are very accessible, even to the beginner maker. In fact, he is working on a series of videos dedicated to Limited Tools. At the time of writing this, he’s only a couple videos in, but what I like about it so far is the focus on using a small set of easily accessible tools to build tools and jigs that will help you get the most out of a modest shop.
Please, check out the DIY Creator channel, subscribe, and go through some of his video catalog. He has many builds that I wouldn’t hesitate to include as a Featured Build.
This post is the second in a series of posts about my new Laguna 1412. The first was written to describe my first impressions as I unpacked the shipping box. I evaluated the fit and finish of the various components, and reviewed the overall quality of materials. In this post, I’d like to take some time to talk about the assembly and set up of the saw. Even though the included documentation is pretty thorough, the authors of the manual were a little too close to the saw, and made some unfair assumptions. As such, a couple of things were glossed over, and I’d like to do my best to augment their documentation, and hopefully help you get set up a little more quickly than I.
A quick note: the documentation below includes instructions for set up of the Mobility Kit, which is not included with the bandsaw (but I would HIGHLY recommend it). I did not purchase the Optional Light, and do not have any details about setting that up.
Stand and Mobility Kit
Initially, you’re going to be setting up the base. There are four panels that need to be bolted together. One of the nice things about the design of this bandsaw is that the threads are built in to the panels. This means that you only have to worry about the bolts, and you don’t have to fuss with fitting and holding any nuts in place.
To emphasize this, look at how little hardware is needed to assemble this base. Keep in mind this base is designed to hold up hundreds of pounds of steel and cast iron. And it doesn’t even flinch.
The Laguna Manual calls out two side panels, and two back/front panels, but doesn’t call out which is which. For your reference, the pebbled gray panels are the back/front panels, and the black, trapezoidal panels are considered the side panels. Assembly of the base is done by putting the bolts THROUGH the back/front gray panels, and threaded into the threads included in the side panels. I would recommend loosely finger tightening these bolts, until all are seated, then tighten later with a 12mm wrench.
After the four panels are bolted on, we’ll get the feet and the mobility kit installed. If you’re using a mobility kit, only install 2 of the 4 feet, and install the 2 on the bottom of one of the side, black panels. If you are not using the mobility kit, install all 4 feet on the bottom of the stand, and move on to the next section.
At this point, I can’t recommend a good set of hex/allen keys enough. Preferably t-shaped, with a relatively long reach. There were points in assembling the mobility kit where I could only finger-tighten a couple screws, until I was able to get the longer hex keys needed. Here is an opportunity for Laguna to improve. Included tooling would be a cheap, but meaningful addition to the Mobility Kit.
I was very confused when using the included instructions as it referenced the “Support Bracket” for the mobility kit. So, I’ve included some more detailed instructions. On the same side you installed the 2 feet, slide the support bracket under the frame as shown, and secure with the single screw.
The rest of the mobility kit instructions are pretty well put together. The only additional trouble I ran in to was, as previously stated, attaching the front swivel wheel to the support bracket without a long hex key. But, with the right tools, this should be a breeze.
Attaching the Bandsaw to the Stand
This is, perhaps, the most difficult, and dangerous, part of the assembly, particularly if you don’t have anyone to assist you. I would strongly recommend having someone to help with the heavy lifting and supporting of the bandsaw during this step. I did this alone, and risked injury and/or damage to the tool.
The instructions recommend laying the bandsaw down on its side (on the spine of the bandsaw), and elevating it with a few pieces of scrap wood. Without thinking, I laid it down on its side, with the motor assembly pointing up. This wasn’t an issue, but I had to take extra precautions that the weight of the bandsaw was not resting on any critical components.
I was able to lift up the bandsaw on 2 sets of 2 – 2x4s. I would recommend using a few more, perhaps 8 total 2x4s, as the stand was slightly askew as I was bolting it on. I was able to do it though.
Make sure the bolts are tight before lifting the bandsaw into its upright position. If they are only finger-tight, or not even, you will put a lot of stress on the bolts, and will likely break them.
Fitting the Table to the Bandsaw and Vertical Shaft Adjustment Handle
The challenge during this step is holding a very heavy Table steady while fitting in the Trunnion bolts. Certainly possible to do with one person (I did, and with little issue), but it would’ve been far easier with a second person. If you’re doing it by yourself, plan ahead a bit, move the Trunnion Bolts to a position that will make it easier for you to slide the table in, and the bolts in to the bandsaw. After this is complete, affix the adjustment knobs (ratchet handles) to the trunnion bolts.
The only remaining note here is when affixing the Vertical Shaft Adjustment Handle, make sure that the set screw in the handle is aligned with the flat spot on the shaft (see picture to the right).
Table Rule and Fence System
Assembly of the Table Rule is pretty well documented in the manual. I’ve included a couple of notes and pictures though.
The “front” of the machine is when the spine of the bandsaw is on the left-hand side. The rule attaches to the “front” of the cast-iron table. The zero marker on the rule should roughly line up with where the bandsaw blade passes through the table. This is easily adjustable later, and will likely need to be fine-tuned every time a new blade is put on, so don’t worry too much about this alignment now.
Starting the assembly of the fence system begins with attaching the fence rail to the bandsaw. From the manual “The distance between the fixing holes and the end of the bar is different, and the end that has the longest distance must be at the back of the bandsaw.” I couldn’t have worded it better myself, so I just quoted it here. Using the spacers and bolts included, thread the bolts through the hole in the rail, and slide the spacer over the bolts. You can then screw the bolt in to the table at the appropriate fixing location.
Attaching the Fence to the rail is the last major step before you’re able to turn the bandsaw on and start cutting (well, short of installing a blade). The fence attaches to the Rail with the Fence Support and Clamping Bar. The clamping bar uses t-track type hardware to secure the aluminum extruded fence to the Fence Support. See the three pictures below. On the left is the Fence Support attached to the Fence Rail. The steel hardware in the middle is what will slide in to the extrusion, as shown in the middle and right picture. The knobs on the Fence Support can then be tightened to secure the fence.
There you have it. I would go in to further detail surrounding fine tuning some of the adjustments, or installing the bandsaw blades. However, the included manual really does a good job of that, and there are more than enough resources on the internet to get an idea on how this is best done.
Please check back shortly, as the next installment of my series on the Laguna 1412 will be uploaded in the coming weeks. In this next post, I will be providing my initial thoughts and review of the product after having used it for a couple of months.
David the Makewright’s Laguna 1412 Series
Installment #1 – Laguna 1412 Bandsaw Unboxing Installment #2 – Laguna 1412 Assembly and Set Up
Installment #3 – Laguna 1412 Initial Review (coming August 2016)
Core77 is a great blog and magazine for those interested in Industrial Design. I was made aware of the site because of their on-going relationship with Jimmy Diresta, whose work I follow very closely. This is the first post I’ve made linking to Core77, but it will likely not be the last.
Recently, I stumbled onto a fascinating series of posts published on Core77. The series is called “An Introduction to Wood Species”. It was originally started by Rain Noe in 2013, and included 10 installments. Earlier this year, it was picked up by Shannon Rogers (also known as the Renaissance Woodworker) and of WoodTalk Podcast fame. He has been releasing additional posts every two weeks or so, and there are now 20 different species discussed in detail.
For the wood nerds out there, I would strongly recommend you check them out. Follow the links below for the whole series (current through July 14th, 2016).
Jeremy Thompson over at The Von Thompson YouTube channel has been working on polishing up his Shipping Container build, and I’m regretting not following it from the beginning. He has incorporated a whimsical design in to two things known for being utilitarian, shipping containers, and workshops. I am still working my way through the video series, and some of his other builds, but I wanted to take a minute to call Jeremy out for the great work he is doing here. He has inspired me, and I’d like to share that with everyone. I’ve shared the first video in the series here, but I encourage you to go check out his YouTube Home Page, subscribe to his channel, and checkout the rest of the series.