This post is the second in a series of posts about my new Laguna 1412. The first was written to describe my first impressions as I unpacked the shipping box. I evaluated the fit and finish of the various components, and reviewed the overall quality of materials. In this post, I’d like to take some time to talk about the assembly and set up of the saw. Even though the included documentation is pretty thorough, the authors of the manual were a little too close to the saw, and made some unfair assumptions. As such, a couple of things were glossed over, and I’d like to do my best to augment their documentation, and hopefully help you get set up a little more quickly than I.
***I have included a link to a digital copy of the provided Laguna manual. Between this manual, and the notes I’ve included below, just about anyone should be able to get this assembled and set up***
A quick note: the documentation below includes instructions for set up of the Mobility Kit, which is not included with the bandsaw (but I would HIGHLY recommend it). I did not purchase the Optional Light, and do not have any details about setting that up.
Stand and Mobility Kit
Initially, you’re going to be setting up the base. There are four panels that need to be bolted together. One of the nice things about the design of this bandsaw is that the threads are built in to the panels. This means that you only have to worry about the bolts, and you don’t have to fuss with fitting and holding any nuts in place.
To emphasize this, look at how little hardware is needed to assemble this base. Keep in mind this base is designed to hold up hundreds of pounds of steel and cast iron. And it doesn’t even flinch.
The Laguna Manual calls out two side panels, and two back/front panels, but doesn’t call out which is which. For your reference, the pebbled gray panels are the back/front panels, and the black, trapezoidal panels are considered the side panels. Assembly of the base is done by putting the bolts THROUGH the back/front gray panels, and threaded into the threads included in the side panels. I would recommend loosely finger tightening these bolts, until all are seated, then tighten later with a 12mm wrench.
After the four panels are bolted on, we’ll get the feet and the mobility kit installed. If you’re using a mobility kit, only install 2 of the 4 feet, and install the 2 on the bottom of one of the side, black panels. If you are not using the mobility kit, install all 4 feet on the bottom of the stand, and move on to the next section.
At this point, I can’t recommend a good set of hex/allen keys enough. Preferably t-shaped, with a relatively long reach. There were points in assembling the mobility kit where I could only finger-tighten a couple screws, until I was able to get the longer hex keys needed. Here is an opportunity for Laguna to improve. Included tooling would be a cheap, but meaningful addition to the Mobility Kit.
I was very confused when using the included instructions as it referenced the “Support Bracket” for the mobility kit. So, I’ve included some more detailed instructions. On the same side you installed the 2 feet, slide the support bracket under the frame as shown, and secure with the single screw.
The rest of the mobility kit instructions are pretty well put together. The only additional trouble I ran in to was, as previously stated, attaching the front swivel wheel to the support bracket without a long hex key. But, with the right tools, this should be a breeze.
Attaching the Bandsaw to the Stand
This is, perhaps, the most difficult, and dangerous, part of the assembly, particularly if you don’t have anyone to assist you. I would strongly recommend having someone to help with the heavy lifting and supporting of the bandsaw during this step. I did this alone, and risked injury and/or damage to the tool.
The instructions recommend laying the bandsaw down on its side (on the spine of the bandsaw), and elevating it with a few pieces of scrap wood. Without thinking, I laid it down on its side, with the motor assembly pointing up. This wasn’t an issue, but I had to take extra precautions that the weight of the bandsaw was not resting on any critical components.
I was able to lift up the bandsaw on 2 sets of 2 – 2x4s. I would recommend using a few more, perhaps 8 total 2x4s, as the stand was slightly askew as I was bolting it on. I was able to do it though.
Make sure the bolts are tight before lifting the bandsaw into its upright position. If they are only finger-tight, or not even, you will put a lot of stress on the bolts, and will likely break them.
Fitting the Table to the Bandsaw and Vertical Shaft Adjustment Handle
The challenge during this step is holding a very heavy Table steady while fitting in the Trunnion bolts. Certainly possible to do with one person (I did, and with little issue), but it would’ve been far easier with a second person. If you’re doing it by yourself, plan ahead a bit, move the Trunnion Bolts to a position that will make it easier for you to slide the table in, and the bolts in to the bandsaw. After this is complete, affix the adjustment knobs (ratchet handles) to the trunnion bolts.
The only remaining note here is when affixing the Vertical Shaft Adjustment Handle, make sure that the set screw in the handle is aligned with the flat spot on the shaft (see picture to the right).
Table Rule and Fence System
Assembly of the Table Rule is pretty well documented in the manual. I’ve included a couple of notes and pictures though.
The “front” of the machine is when the spine of the bandsaw is on the left-hand side. The rule attaches to the “front” of the cast-iron table. The zero marker on the rule should roughly line up with where the bandsaw blade passes through the table. This is easily adjustable later, and will likely need to be fine-tuned every time a new blade is put on, so don’t worry too much about this alignment now.
Starting the assembly of the fence system begins with attaching the fence rail to the bandsaw. From the manual “The distance between the fixing holes and the end of the bar is different, and the end that has the longest distance must be at the back of the bandsaw.” I couldn’t have worded it better myself, so I just quoted it here. Using the spacers and bolts included, thread the bolts through the hole in the rail, and slide the spacer over the bolts. You can then screw the bolt in to the table at the appropriate fixing location.
Attaching the Fence to the rail is the last major step before you’re able to turn the bandsaw on and start cutting (well, short of installing a blade). The fence attaches to the Rail with the Fence Support and Clamping Bar. The clamping bar uses t-track type hardware to secure the aluminum extruded fence to the Fence Support. See the three pictures below. On the left is the Fence Support attached to the Fence Rail. The steel hardware in the middle is what will slide in to the extrusion, as shown in the middle and right picture. The knobs on the Fence Support can then be tightened to secure the fence.
There you have it. I would go in to further detail surrounding fine tuning some of the adjustments, or installing the bandsaw blades. However, the included manual really does a good job of that, and there are more than enough resources on the internet to get an idea on how this is best done.
Please check back shortly, as the next installment of my series on the Laguna 1412 will be uploaded in the coming weeks. In this next post, I will be providing my initial thoughts and review of the product after having used it for a couple of months.
David the Makewright’s Laguna 1412 Series
Installment #1 – Laguna 1412 Bandsaw Unboxing
Installment #2 – Laguna 1412 Assembly and Set Up
Installment #3 – Laguna 1412 Initial Review (coming August 2016)